Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Whitney area to bag the highest
peak in the contiguous United States and are pleasantly surprised by the quality
of the alpine granite. The most popular routes on Whitney are the East Face,
the East Buttress and the Mountaineers Route.
While Mt. Whitney is the main attraction to climbers in this area, the Peaks
surrounding Whitney: Mt. Russell and the Keeler Needle offer superb routes
(though more difficult) and shouldn't be overlooked by technically skilled
mountaineers. The neighboring summits including Mt. Langley and Lone Pine
Peak are also worthy of ascent.
Permits
Permits are required
for all overnight trips and for all day trips into the Mt. Whitney Zone. Due
to the high use of this area user quotas have to be set. Climbers and hikers
caught in the backcountry without a permit will be fined. Fines range from
$100 - $200.
Permit Information
Call the Mt. Whitney Ranger Station if you have further questions. 760-876-6200.
The Mountaineers Route (North
Fork of Lone Pine Creek)
To access the mountaineering routes on Mts. Whitney and Russell et al. climbers
take the Mountaineers Route to Iceberg Lake, an unmaintained and technical
climbers trial which leaves the main Mt. Whitney Trail at the "North
Fork of Lone Pine Creek" sign. Please stay on the trail to avoid erosion
damage. This hike is only suitable for those in good physical condition and
with route-finding and mountaineering skills.
Human waste disposal is a resource problem in this drainage which could potentially
lead to restricted access in the future. To avoid this happening climbers
and hikers are being asked to participate in the "Pack-out-your-poop
program", and strictly adhere to other wilderness considerations.
The Mountaineers Route on Mt. Whitney
First
climbed in 1873 by John Muir, this deep couloir which separates the northeast
ridge from the east buttress of Mt. Whitney can often be climbed during the
summer and fall months without any technical equipment. Winter, spring and
sometimes early summer ascents require the use of crampons and an ice-axe
as the couloir contains hard frozen snow or ice, even in the late afternoon.
A fall in the couloir or the wide chute near the top of Mt. Whitney would
be serious if not fatal.
Those who don't have strong mountaineering skills and would like to climb
Mt. Whitney or one of the many fine peaks in the Mt. Whitney region are encouraged
to hire the services of AMGA certified
guides.
